Temperature controlled fan Circuit diagram

This is temperature controlled fan circuit.When you use this circuit you don't want to turn the switches when the heat goes up.It is controlled automatically.

Note

# R1 =thermistor (15K @ 20°C ,N.T.C thermistor )

# C1 must be rated 25V.

# This circuit is operated with 12V power supply

PWM Speed Motor Controller

This is very useful circuit.When we use high speed moters(Pwm)We need a circuit to boost the speed so this is the circuit for it.This circuit can generate 170-200Hz frequency.This circuit operates with 4.5V to 6V.

Note

# Use IN4148 diodes for this

PWM Motor Speed Control Circuit

Here is a simple PWM motor speed controller circuit that can be used for varying the speed of low power DC motors .The variation in speed is achieved by varying the duty cycle of the pulse supplied to drive the motor.Of the two gates of IC CD40106B ,N1 is wired as an inverting Schmitt Trigger astable multi vibrator for producing pulses and N2 as an inverting buffer to drive the transistor during positive cycles at base.The duty cycle is set from resistor R2. R1 limits the base current of transistor SL 100.The circuit is ideal for controlling toy motors,hand held mini fans , small blowers etc.

Notes .

* By varying R2 duty cycle can be varied from 0% to 100%.
* For identifying pins of SL 100 ,the pin that is connected to casing is collector,the pin near to notch is emitter and the one remaining is base.

Bi-directional motor

This is a simple and easy to construct circuit that can be used to provide a bidirectional drive to a DC motor. The circuit operation is straight forward. Output of an astable mutivibrator based on IC1 (NE555) is used to control the relay RL1 driving the motor. The motor is connected between the two poles of the relay contacts. The relay contacts are so wired as to reverse the DC supply to the motor when the contacts changeover.

The astable multivibrator produces a square wave at the output with its high time given by 0.69(R1+R3+R5)C1 and low time given by 0.69(R1+R2+R4)C1.The high and low times can be varied by varying potentiometers R4 and R5.For the given values the high and low times can be adjusted between 1S and 8S separately. When the IC1 output is low, the relay is de energised and the relay contacts are in position 1-1 with the result that A terminal of the motor is positive and motor runs in one direction. The IC1 output is high the relay is energised and the contacts changeover to position 2-2.Now the terminal B of the motor becomes positive and motor runs in the opposite direction. The transistor Q1 is used to drive the relay according to the output from IC1.The diode D4 acts as freewheeling diode.

Notes.

* Assemble the circuit on a good quality PCB.
* The circuit can be powered from a 12V DC power supply.
* The IC1 must be mounted on a holder.
* The capacitor C1 must be rated at least 15V.
* The relay RL1 can be a 12V DPDT relay.

PWM motor speed controller

This circuit is designed as per a request made by Mr Vinoth from India. His requirement was a 12V/5A DC fan motor controller. I think this circuit is sufficient for this purpose. Quad 2 input Schmitt trigger IC CD4093 is the heart of this circuit. Out of the four Schmitt triggers inside the 4093, U1a is wired as an oscillator with adjustable duty cycle. The U1b, U1c, U1d buffers the output of the oscillator to drive the switching MOSFET Q1.The MOSFET drives the DC motor according to the switching pulse obtained from the oscillator. When R1 is varied the duty cycle varies and so do the speed of the motor. Diode D3 acts as a freewheeling diode.

Notes.

* Assemble the circuit on a good quality PCB.
* IC U1 should be mounted on a holder.
* U1a, U1b, U1c, U1d are part of the same IC CD4093; so power supply is shown connected only once.
* The12V power supply for this circuit must be able to handle at least 5A.
* A heat sink is recommended for Q1.

Motor Speed Control

Motor Speed Control
This circuit will allow you to control the speed of an AC motor, for example an electric drill. The way that this circuit works is as follows. The bridge rectifier produces dc voltage from the 120vac line. A portion on this current passes through the 10K ohm pot. The circuit comprised of the 10k pot, the two 100 ohm resistors and the 50uf capacitors delivers gate drive of the SCR.

The diode D1 protects the circuit from reverse voltage spikes. The ratings of the bridge rectifier and the SCR should be 25 amps and PIV 600 volts. The diode D1 should be rated for 2 amps with PIV of 600 volts. The circuit can handle a load up to 10 amps. The SCR should be very well heat sinked.

Fan control

This is a simple circuit that will do what you want I believe.


R1 15k ohm resistor
NTC Thermistor- 10k ohm, sold at Radio Shack in the states.
P1 10k ohm potentiometer - sets the low speed(voltage) of the fans at the cool temperature. P2 50K ohm potentiometer - sets the gain of the circuit - how fast the voltage will rise to full output when the temp is higher. TL082 a op-amp that I had handy, most any single voltage op-amp should work. The TL082 is a dual op-amp if you want more then one controller on a board. note that the power and ground connections for the op-amp are not shown on the schematic. R2 - The TL082 is a fast op-amp, needed R2 to reduce oscillation. IRF-510 A 4 amp mos-fet in a TO-220 case. Bascially as the voltage on the gate rises the mos-fet will conduct more current. note 1 there are also IRF-520 and 530 versions that will handle more current. note 2 Even at 5 watts the mos-fet will disapate some heat and will need to be heat-sinked or at least in the air flow path. the large metal part of the fet will be at drain(D) voltage level. Do not attach to case. D1, almost any diode, 1N4001 should work,it conducts back around the fan when the mos-fet turns off. As the fan continues spinning it will produce a voltage on the drain lead of the fet. D1 will limit that voltage. Adjustment, easiest if you have a voltmeter but can be done without. Get the thermistor at room temp. Adjust P1 for the low speed that you want your fans to run at. Heat the thermistor to the high temp you want the fans at full speed. ( I stuck it under my tongue) Adjust P2 until the fans are at full speed( with voltmeter the highest voltage you can get) then adjust P2 until the speed/voltage just begins to drop off. Most fan specs that I have seen show a low voltage limit of around 7 volts. Some of the smaller 80mm fans have a lower limit of 8 volts. If you set the low voltage to low the fans may stall until the thermistor heats up enough. Let me know if you build this circuit and how it works for you. corrected, single voltage op-amps should be used, OP-07 is a dual voltage

DC Motor Control Circuit

Notes:
Here, S1 and S2 are normally open , push to close, press button switches. The diodes can be red or green and are there only to indicate direction. You may need to alter the TIP31 transistors depending on the motor being used. Remember, running under load draws more current. This circuit was built to operate a small motor used for opening and closing a pair of curtains. As an advantage over automatic closing and opening systems, you have control of how much, or how little light to let into a room. The four diodes surriunding the motor, are back EMF diodes. They are chosen to suit the motor. For a 12V motor drawing 1amp under load, I use 1N4001 diodes

Automatic DC Motor Brake

In many DC motor powered systems you would like the motor to quickly come to a full stop. This circuit provides an automatic electronic braking action to any DC motor ranging from 6v to 24v up to 1 amp of current. Some of the component values could be changed for larger motors.
When power is applied to the hobby circuit, Q1 is turned on. This routes zero volts to the gate of Q2, turning off Q2. Current flows to the motor through the diode D2. When power is removed from the circuit, Q1 quickly turns off which routes some stored charge from C1 to the gate of Q2. This turns on Q2, which provides a heavy current path for the free spinning voltage emerging from the motor windings. The value of R3 can be selected for any desired braking action. The fastest braking time occurs when the resistance of R3 is zero ohms

Two-Button Motor Controller

This electronic hobby circuit uses a few diodes and a couple relays to control almost any DC motor. The hobby circuit was originally designed to control a motor that raised and lowered a platform. One pushbutton switch will cause the motor to rotate in one direction while the second button will force the motor to rotate in the opposite direction. Both pushbutton switches only have to power the relay coils so they can be rated for low current. The relays should have contacts rated for more than the maximum motor current. The motor can be almost any 6v to 24v DC motor.

simple circuit to control DC motor on/off

This a simple circuit that use to turn on/off 12V DC motor with TTL control signal input. The BD139 should instal with heat sink

Automatic Fan Controller

Description
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Th1, the 50K thermistor, is a standard type. Mine was a bar or rectangular looking thingy. Available from Tandy/Radio-Shack. Almost any type will do. I experimented with different models from 22K to 100K
and all worked fine after replacing the trimmer pot. The one used in the above circuit diagram was a 50K model. This 50K was measured at exactly 25 °C and with 10% tolerance. The resistance increases as the surrounding temperature decreases. Tolerance for my application (cooling a large powersupply coolrib) is 10%. Another name for this thing is 'NTC'. NTC stands for "Negative Temperature Coefficient" which means when the surrounding temperature decreases the resistance of this thermistor will increase. I replaced my thermistor for a 60K hermetically
sealed glass type since the environment for my application may contain corrosive particles which may affect performance on a future date. P1 is a regular Bourns trimmer and adjusts a wide range of temperatures for this circuit.

I used the 10-turn type for a bit finer adjustment but the regular type will work for your application.
R1 is a 'security' resistor just in case the trimmer pot P1 is adjusted all the way to '0' ohms. At which time the thermistor would get the full 12 volt and it will get so hot that it puts blisters on your fingers... :-)R3 feeds a bit of hysteresis back into the op-amp to eliminate relay 'chatter' when the temperature of the thermistor reaches its threshold point. Depending on your application and the type you use for Q1 and Re1, start with 330K or so and adjust its value downwards until your satisfied. The value of 150K shown in the diagram worked for me. Decreasing the value of R2 means more hysteresis, just don't use more then necessary. Or temporarily use a trimmer pot and read off the value. 120K worked for me.

Transistor Q1 can be a 2N2222(A), 2N3904, NTE123A, ECG123A, etc. Not critical at all. It acts only as a switch for the relay so almost any type will work, as long as it can provide the current needed to activate the relay's coil. D1, the 1N4148, acts as a spark arrestor when the contacts of the relay open and eliminates false triggering. For my application the 1N4148 was good enough since the tiny relay I used was only 1 amp.

However, you can use a large variety of diodes here, my next choice would be a regular purpose 1N4001 or something and should be used if your relay type can handle more then 1 amp. If you like to make your own pcb, try the one above. The pcb is fitted with holes for the relay but may not fit your particular relay. It was designed for a Aromat HB1-DC12V type.

The variety and model of relays is just to great. How to mount it then? Well, I left ample space on the pcb to mount your relay. You can even mount it up-side-down and connect the wires individually. Use Silicon glue, cyanoacrylate ester (crazy glue), or double-sided tape to hold the relay in place. Works well. Note that the pcb and layout is not according to the circuit diagram in regards to the hookup of the fans. The PCB measures approximately 1.5 x 3 inches (4.8 x 7.6mm) If you print the pcb to an inkjet printer it is probably not to scale. Try to fit a 8-pin ic socket on the printed copy to make sure it fits before making the pcb

Fan control

This is a simple circuit that will do what you want I believe.


R1 15k ohm resistor
NTC Thermistor- 10k ohm, sold at Radio Shack in the states.
P1 10k ohm potentiometer - sets the low speed(voltage) of the fans at the cool temperature. P2 50K ohm potentiometer - sets the gain of the circuit - how fast the voltage will rise to full output when the temp is higher. TL082 a op-amp that I had handy, most any single voltage op-amp should work. The TL082 is a dual op-amp if you want more then one controller on a board. note that the power and ground connections for the op-amp are not shown on the schematic. R2 - The TL082 is a fast op-amp, needed R2 to reduce oscillation. IRF-510 A 4 amp mos-fet in a TO-220 case. Bascially as the voltage on the gate rises the mos-fet will conduct more current. note 1 there are also IRF-520 and 530 versions that will handle more current. note 2 Even at 5 watts the mos-fet will disapate some heat and will need to be heat-sinked or at least in the air flow path. the large metal part of the fet will be at drain(D) voltage level. Do not attach to case. D1, almost any diode, 1N4001 should work,it conducts back around the fan when the mos-fet turns off. As the fan continues spinning it will produce a voltage on the drain lead of the fet. D1 will limit that voltage. Adjustment, easiest if you have a voltmeter but can be done without. Get the thermistor at room temp. Adjust P1 for the low speed that you want your fans to run at. Heat the thermistor to the high temp you want the fans at full speed. ( I stuck it under my tongue) Adjust P2 until the fans are at full speed( with voltmeter the highest voltage you can get) then adjust P2 until the speed/voltage just begins to drop off. Most fan specs that I have seen show a low voltage limit of around 7 volts. Some of the smaller 80mm fans have a lower limit of 8 volts. If you set the low voltage to low the fans may stall until the thermistor heats up enough. Let me know if you build this circuit and how it works for you. corrected, single voltage op-amps should be used, OP-07 is a dual voltage

DC Motor Control Circuit

Notes:
Here, S1 and S2 are normally open , push to close, press button switches. The diodes can be red or green and are there only to indicate direction. You may need to alter the TIP31 transistors depending on the motor being used. Remember, running under load draws more current. This circuit was built to operate a small motor used for opening and closing a pair of curtains. As an advantage over automatic closing and opening systems, you have control of how much, or how little light to let into a room. The four diodes surriunding the motor, are back EMF diodes. They are chosen to suit the motor. For a 12V motor drawing 1amp under load, I use 1N4001 diodes

DC Motor Reversing Circuit

Notes:
At first glance this may look over-complicated, but this is simply because three non-latching push button switches are used. When the forward button is pressed and released the motor will run continuously in one direction. The Stop button must be used before pressing the reverse button. The reverse button will cause the motor to run continuously in the opposite direction, or until the stop button is used. Putting a motor straight into reverse would be quite dangerous, because when running a motor develops a back emf voltage which would add to current flow in the opposite direction and probably cause arcing of the relay contacts. This circuit has a built-in safeguard against that condition.

Circuit Operation:
Assume that the motor is not running and that all relays are unenergized. When the forward button is pressed, a positive battery is applied via the NC contacts of B1 to the coil of relay RA/2. This will operate as the return path is via the NC contacts of D1. Relay RA/2 will operate. Contacts A1 maintain power to the relay even though the forward button is released. Contacts A2 apply power to the motor which will now run continuously in one direction. If now the reverse button is pressed, nothing happens because the positive supply for the switch is fed via the NC contact A1, which is now open because Relay RA/2 is energized. To Stop the motor the Stop switch is pressed, Relay D operates and its contact D1 breaks the power to relays A and B, (only Relay A is operated at the moment). If the reverse switch is now pressed and released. Relay B operates via NC contact A1 and NC contact D1. Contact B1 closes and maintains power so that the relay is now latched, even when the reverse switch is opened. Relay RC/2 will also be energized and latched. Contact B2 applies power to the motor but as contacts C1 and C2 have changed position, the motor will now run continuously in the opposite direction. Pressing the forward button has no effect as power to this switch is broken via the now open NC contact B1. If the stop button is now pressed. Relay D energizes, its contact D1 breaks power to relay B, which in turn breaks power to relay C via the NO contact of B1 and of course the motor will stop. All very easy. The capacitor across relay D is there to make sure that relay D will operate at least longer than the time relays A,B and C take to release

DC Motor Control Circuit

Notes:
Here, S1 and S2 are normally open , push to close, press button switches. The diodes can be
red or green and are there only to indicate direction. You may need to alter the TIP31 transistors
depending on the motor being used. Remember, running under load draws more current. This
circuit was built to operate a small motor used for opening and closing a pair of curtains. As an
advantage over automatic closing and opening systems, you have control of how much, or how
little light to let into a room. The four diodes surriunding the motor, are back EMF diodes. They
are chosen to suit the motor. For a 12V motor drawing 1amp under load, I use 1N4001 diodes